You want them nice and short, and fat, and stocky, by plant out time.
#LEGGY TOMATO SEEDLINGS FULL#
More like working it up to a full Teaspoon to that gallon of water. I start boosting the fertilizer very, very, very (did I say "very?") gradually, and I've never worked it up to more than a full Tbsp. If they need moisture in-between feedings, I use plain water. NEVER leave your seedlings sitting in water! I feed them only once per week. After 15-20 minutes, I use the turkey baster to suck out any remaining fertilizer.
Then, I fill the trays from the bottom with enough of this solution to raise the water line to about 1" to 1.5" up the sides of the seedling pots, and let them soak it up for about 15 minutes. of MG Water Soluble Plant food for Veggies. I fill a gallon milk jug with tepid water, and add about 1/8 tsp. It is at this point I begin introducing some nutrients, following Al Fassezke's (Tapla's) rule: Water WEAKLY, weekly. After it looks comfortable in the new home (or, after about 4-5 top waterings), I begin bottom-watering only. If they are planted in partial or full shade, it could lead to leggy tomato plants, among other issues like lower yields and slower ripening. When you transplant, make sure your tomato plants are getting as much full sun as possible. I use a large Turkey Baster to barely moisten the soil, and keep it moist, until the seedling settles in after that first potting up, and gets itself established. Keep the lights at least few inches above the top to avoid burning your tomato plants.
The peroxide introduces oxygen to the plant, as well as serves as a sort of disinfectant against fungaluglies that threaten most seedlings in the form of "damping off." (Google and read.). With that said, after potting up, I begin top watering my seedlings with a mixture of PLAIN, tepid water (barely warm to the touch), to which 1 capful of Hydrogen Peroxide (H202) has been added. In my overall observations with growing seedlings, SLOW and STEADY wins the race! I actually prefer adding the nutrients, because I get to CONTROL just how much my seedlings get, and help determine how FAST THEY GROW. Some are added to boosted up potting mix. Some fall off.Īt a point, your seedlings will need nutrients. You will notice them shriveling up as the plant grows. The nurse leaves supply nutrients to the seedlings - up to a point. I've grown almost exclusively in containers (5 & 6.5-gallon self-watering eBuckets, and homemade (HEBs) and patented Earthboxes - EB). Here's the link to the rest of that discussion. Once they show, and you can safely handle the leggy seedling by the leaves (try NOT to handle it by the stem - they're very tender and can be damaged beyond what you can obviously see), POT IT UP. Once you've addressed these two possible issues, let your seedlings grow on until that 2nd set of true leaves. Close off the vent and turn a fan on to take the temp down a bit. If it's too warm in there (above 75°), the seedlings will grow too fast, and end up tall and skinny. I use two regular HD fluorescent shop lights side x side on each shelf, for a total of 4 bulbs per shelf. They're stretching to find adequate light. First of all, check your light source, as that is a #1 contributor to leggy seedlings.